THE NEW BALANCE 990: Six Generations of Vanguard Runners

In the world of design, there are certain objects that exist in a place impervious to time or trends, floating amongst the collective consciousness in a bubble of perpetual relevance. The Mini Cooper. Artek’s 60 Stool. Levi’s 501 Jeans. All of these things represent something that exists beyond their tangible state — an abstract iconography deeply embedded within wider culture.

It's a design trait that exists very much in the sneaker world, with particular silhouettes continuing to remain at the centre of the zeitgeist decades after their original inception. One such sneaker is New Balance’s 990: a shoe that symbolises the epitome of premium quality, comfort and sneaker technology. Since its debut four decades ago — where New Balance set out to create the best running shoe ever made, irrespective of costs — the 990 has represented a cornerstone in the sneaker sphere, symbolising a staple everywhere from higher fashion circles to streetwear.

Though it has evolved on six separate occasions, the core of what makes the 990 remains everlasting: a mascot that perfectly embodies the decades of quality, refinement and meticulousness the Made in USA division has stood for. This year marks a new chapter for the ever-iconic shoe, one where it enters its sixth generation with the all-new V6. Looking back on the sneaker’s coveted history, END. spotlights each generation of the 990 and celebrates what makes each one so iconic.

Back in 1982, a sneaker costing in excess of $100 was unheard of — ridiculous, even. It was a risk, then, when New Balance decided to release a sneaker with a triple-figure price point — for context, that's around $300 in today’s money — at a time where the average cost less than half that, but it was a risk New Balance was willing to take. The process for creating the 990 began roughly four years prior to its release date, a time in which the company thought long and hard, tried and tested and refined their approach with the sole objective: to create the best running shoe on the planet.

What New Balance did was capitalise on a gap in the market, prioritising domestic craft during a period in which it was steadily moving overseas. The result was a premium, performance-driven sneaker that more than justified its high price point, with a construction aimed at a harmonious combination of flexibility and support — something which, at the time, was “usually achieved at the expense of another”, according to New Balance and its debut campaign for the shoe. The first step in achieving this was through a process called slip lasting, whereby the sneaker’s pigskin suede and mesh upper would be finished with a single seam and then steamed into place — a process that was, admittedly, more rigorous and time consuming, but enabled the shoe greater flexibility. The sole unit mirrored the progressiveness of the upper half, with a patented heel stabalising cradle known as a Motion Control Device.

All of the time and effort spent in creating the v1 was worth it, too, with the sneaker being a huge commercial success, not only with serious runners with cash to spend, but also those looking to the sneaker as a status symbol. In the DMV tri-state area, the 990 quickly became a symbol of luxury on the streets, largely thanks to its price point as the most expensive sneaker ever made. It also represented the first — and arguably the definitive — sneaker in the 99x series: a lineage of shoes representing a collective cornerstone in the sneaker world.  

Such was the success of the 990v1, that it wasn’t until 16 years later that New Balance decided to introduce its successor, the v2. It represented an evolution of the codes established by the debut sneaker — refinement, technology and comfort — only things were pushed in a new direction. Visually, the sneaker looked more progressive than not just the previous 990, but any of the other New Balance sneakers in that era. To match the updated visuals, ABZORB cushioning was used in the midsole, building upon the foundations of the original shoe and improving its shock absorption.

In the contemporary sense, the v2 has followed a similar trajectory as the wider 990 family, in that a resurgence in popularity has been achieved in a two-fold manner: a combination of rising chunky sneaker trends and sought-after collaborative releases. A large part of this has been Teddy Santis’ influence, both through his collaborations under his Aimé Leon Dore imprint and his Creative Directorship of New Balance’s Made in US line. Other notable collaborative efforts have launched the shoe into the spotlight, too, like WTAPS’ understated rendition from last year or Salehe Bembury’s not-so-subtle iteration.

The 30th anniversary of the 990 marked a milestone in the shoe’s history: a three-decade tenure as one of the vanguards of performance running. The occasion called for something big, something special, and New Balance delivered just that with the V3. It was, both visually and technically, another big leap for the sneaker, with a progressive makeover and a new direction for the 990. The uppers, for instance, were dominated with mesh for increased breathability and enhanced looks, while the tongue featured grid-like reinforcements that furthered the technical aesthetic. The sole unit also laid the foundations for the 990 generations that would follow, with ENCAP technology used to provide unparalleled comfort and support.

The momentum behind the v3 has remained consistent throughout the decade it’s been in existence, with 2022 representing another monumental year for the sneaker. Again, like the v2, the spotlighting of the sneaker has been strong with mainline releases under the guidance of Teddy Santis, with a long list of elevated colourways and material constructions. The collaborative efforts have been equally as integral to the v3’s popularity, too, with everyone from Patta to JJJJound providing their own takes on the much-loved shoe.

The 990v4 arrived just four years on from the v3 — a short period of time considering previous iterations — representing further refinement in the 990 family. Visually, it very much resembled the shoe that came before it, striking the perfect balance between lifestyle and tech that the 990 is renowned for. The technology underpinning the shoe was further tinkered with, with perforated polyether foam between the sneaker’s mesh and lining for increased breathability. The sole unit was also redesigned, with the sneaker’s ENCAP cushioning tweaked to offer increased support and comfort.

Much like the other sneaker’s in the 990 lineage, the v4 has not been stranger to high-energy collaborations, though these have been less frequent than the dominance of the V2 and V3. Take the 2017 collaboration with Stüssy — a stripped back, elevated rendition of an already premium sneaker. Or New Balance’s partnership with JJJJound in 2021, where the v4 was given a tonal navy blue makeover and detailed with utilitarian toggle laces.

The 990v5 released just three years after the v4, marking yet another significant milestone in the sneaker’s history. Since the early days, New Balance has been an expert in marketing campaigns, creating adverts that tap into the vast culture surrounding the brand in a playful way. That approach was deftly displayed with the 990v5, with the sneaker launching alongside a simple, typical-of-New-Balance advert. It depicted the v5 front and centre in all of its glory, right beneath text reading “Worn by supermodels in London and dads in Ohio”: a nod to the ubiquity the 990 had achieved in its decades of existence, one where its appeal is just as strong in higher fashion circles as it is those looking for comfort and subtlety.

What enables this appeal is something perfectly encapsulated by the v5, from its understated appearance that can be paired with just about anything, to its bevy of technical underpinnings geared towards comfort and support. In terms of looks, it represented the iterative design approach of the v3 and v4, in that it looked subtly different, yet was immediately recognisable as a 990. In terms of the tech, TPU featured towards the heels for added structure and support, while an Ortholite insert was used at the insole to further enhance comfort. 

After being teased earlier this year on Teddy Santis’ Instagram, the much-anticipated v6 is finally here. It follows much of the formula of the sneakers that came before it, with a few tweaks and updates that bring it into the now. Visually, it’s very much a 990, though it’s been reworked with streamlined panelling to give it a more refined, contemporary look. The sneaker’s sidewall “N” branding isn’t laid over a suede panel, too, marking a first in the 990’s history. There has been some updates to the sneaker’s sole unit, too, not just in its chunkier appearance, but also with the addition of FuelCell technology at the midsole for improved responsiveness. Ultimately, the v6 represents a continuation of the 990’s vanguard position in the sneaker world, with a fusion of performance, materials, quality and comfort that few — if any — sneakers can come close to.