Men's adidas BW Army

Sneaker trends come and go, but every so often, something truly timeless digs its heels in and refuses to go anywhere. adidas’ BW Army is one of those rare constants. You’ve almost certainly seen its influence echoed across countless releases since the ’90s, but the original continues to hold its ground.

The name points to its storied history. BW stands for Bundeswehr, the German Federal Defence Force — the sole wearers of the shoe back in the ‘70s. It was designed as a versatile, durable German Army Trainer (or GAT), originally built in white leather with suede overlays and a simple gum rubber sole. With the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, the German army saw a period of restructuring, meaning hordes of unworn GAT trainers descended upon European army stores, where they quickly gained cult status for their quality and minimalist aesthetic. This only intensified when Maison Margiela used refurbished Bundeswehr GAT’s in their 1999 Spring/Summer show. From that point on, the shoe evolved into a widely recognised and beloved template, with its open design lineage inviting endless reworkings and reinterpretations.

Today, adidas revives the icon under the Originals label as the BW Army. Free from its military role but true to the original formula, it’s reimagined through updated materials, colourways and collaborations. Look to premium iterations like the BW Army Lux, or collaborative takes from Hartcopy, Labrum and END., each adding a new chapter to one of sneaker history’s most enduring designs.