CultureA CARTOGRAPHY OF 66° NORTH
13 October 2023Journeying to the coldest climes, END. go on an expedition into the heart of 66° North.
Throughout the ages, places dominated by extreme weather conditions have been at the forefront of innovative design centred around braving and beating the elements. Whether that be rain, wind, snow or sun, necessity breeds innovation, especially when human lives are on the line. Somewhat expectedly, it is from these environments of extremes that brands centred around tackling these issues are born, and one of those brands in 66° North.
Founded in 1926, the outdoor brand was established with a specific purpose: to dutifully brave the elements. Built from the ground up by Hans Kristjánsson, 66° North’s modus operandi was to create hardwearing protective clothing for Icelandic fishermen and workers who were battling the cold and harsh weather conditions of the North Atlantic. Living in Suðureyri in Súgandafjörður, where the weather would routinely drop to -10 degrees below zero and beyond, Kristjánsson could see just how important sturdy and warm clothing was to the people who worked and resided in the Westfjords region, and across Iceland generally. At this time in the early 20th Century, Iceland was a relatively economically poor country, with fishing being the primary economic generator – a far cry from the modern-day economic status of the country, where it ranks 19th in the Index of Economic Freedom. Now driven by foreign tourism and renewable energy production from geothermal and hydropower, which provides almost all of Iceland’s electricity, a hundred years ago, the economy was centred around fishing. Consequently, appropriate protective clothing was imperative and truly a matter of life and death. Learning how to tailor and sew fisherman’s clothing in neighbouring country Norway, Kristjánsson returned to Iceland in 1926, founding the brand under the name Sjóklæðagerð Íslands – which translated as ‘Fishermen’s Clothing Factory of Iceland’ – and is now known as 66° North.
Taking its name from the latitudinal line of the Arctic Circle on which Súgandafjörður is found, the brand sought to offer a defence from the uncompromising and unpredictable weather conditions that the North-West fjords offered, protecting fishermen and their livelihoods throughout the early 20th century. Moving from oil-borne canvas anoraks to the technical outerwear they create in the modern day, 66° North continue to provide protection and comfort with warm and durable clothing designed to make life habitable in the most uninhabitable places.
Central to 66° North’s outlook is a dedication to producing clothing in a sustainable and responsible manner. Asking themselves the question of what it means to be sustainable, the brand have developed a specific approach that champions the environment and sets them on the path to net zero. Centred around the concept of circularity, they offer a holistic approach to environmental conservation with the aim of minimising harm, mitigating their impact and ultimately make a net positive impact on the world on the whole.
A core element of 66° North’s approach to environmental conservation is their design philosophy. Culminating in a dedication to producing clothing that is functional and multi-purpose, the brand’s output sits upon a foundation of ideals that disregards fast fashion practices to focus on quality over quantity. Centred around the Icelandic term “úlpa”, a single coat that is ready for any weather condition, 66° North seek to encourage a re-evaluation of our relationship with clothes and clothing consumption, urging us to be more mindful with our purchases and buying less garments that last longer. A conduit for this approach to design and product, the úlpa encourages our relationships with clothing to be centred around quality and timelessness of design, rather than trends or seasonality. Designed with multi-purpose use in mind, outerwear pieces such as the Snaefell Jacket, the Hornstrandir Gore-Tex Pro Jacket or the Vatnajokull Softshell Jacket are suitable for a plethora of different outdoor activities, reducing the necessity for excessive purchasing and adding further strain on the environment. Through a combination of durability and timeless design, many of 66° North’s garments have been in their catalogue for a decade, with tweaks and subtle changes from season to season to reflect performance or sustainability improvements. One of the most wasteful parts of manufacturing is the development of new styles; consequently, the timelessness that is built into 66° North’s garments reduces the negative environmental effects that come from design, technical development, sampling, pre-production and production. Centred around improvement, instead of complete overhaul, the brand places emphasis on quality design to ensure that their products remain contemporary and reflective of the needs of their users.
Further contributing to the reduction of environmental impact, 66° North’s output is centred around a reduction in styles – with emphasis placed on the tried and tested pieces that embody the brand’s ethos. Since 2018, the brand has reduced the overall number of products that they produce by 42%. When coupled with their impressive use of recycled materials – 70% of their products are made with recycled fabrics – 66° North elucidate their dedication to creating products with materials that last. Actively expanding their use of recycled, upcycled, biodegradable and organic natural fibres, function, necessity and longevity sit at the core of their use, ensuring that changes are made only when they enhance the durability and lifespan of a product. Completing the circular approach to clothing design and production, the brand ensure that their garments avoid becoming landfill through dedicated repair and donation programs. Whether the product is from a few seasons ago or any point in the last century, 66° North’s repair shop in Iceland will ensure that the repairs are carried out and the lifespan of the garment is extended.
Centred around this circular approach to clothing design, Hans Kristjánsson’s brand continues to extoll the virtues of a less is more attitude. Providing exceptional protection against some of the harshest weather conditions in the inhabited world, 66° North delivers the perfect balance of technical excellence and working towards a more sustainable future.