THE LANGUAGE OF FILM STYLE

Integral to the conveyance of emotion, subtext, character, and motivation, costuming facilitates the visual medium through coded choices that add depth to the film’s core themes and narrative storytelling. Offering an insight and reflection on the character, we read costume instantly and almost imperceptibly, drawing conclusions that can be supported or subverted as the film’s narrative progresses.

Ahead of the 2024 Academy Awards, we pluck a variety of iconic outfits from cinema’s recent past that particularly lean into the highly stylised, drawing inspiration from these recognisable stylistic approaches. From twisted psychedelic style in Terry Gilliam’s Fear & Loathing in Las Vegas to a twist on ‘00s aristocratic aesthetics in 2023’s surprise hit from Emerald Fennell, Saltburn, the language of film style is a rich and varied palette that says a great deal without uttering a word.

American director Quentin Tarantino’s most recent directorial outing, Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, captured the hearts of cinemagoers with its combination of ‘70s aesthetics, black comedy, and that much discussed final scene, but it was Brad Pitt’s Americana style as Hollywood stunt-double Cliff Booth that shone brightest. Combining double denim with rich brown suede accessories, Booth’s relaxed ensembles typified essential American aesthetics, blending ‘70s accents and rugged traditional pieces.

An iconic adaptation of Irvine Welsh’s seminal 1993 novel of the same name, Danny Boyle’s Trainspotting introduced a sardonic slice of grunge style to the streets of Edinburgh and Leith in the mid ‘90s. Thrown together and messily styled as Mark Renton, Ewan McGregor's now-legendary look captured the character’s drug-fuelled malaise, with tied flannel adding a twist of patterning that splits up the look and adds characterful flair.

Controversial on release in 1995, Larry Clark’s cult hit Kids introduced Chloe Sevigny and Rosario Dawson to cinema fans with its unflinching portrayal of youth gone wild in New York City. Centring around a group of skateboarding teens, the film’s costume heavily leaned on authentic skate styling of the era, combining rolled up chino pants with oversized white tees and NYC-centric accessories to deliver a unique depiction of New York in the ‘90s.

A rollercoaster of stress, the Safdie Brothers’ follow up to 2017’s hit Good Time, Uncut Gems, saw comedic actor Adam Sandler foray into thriller territory as Howard Ratner – a charismatic jeweller and high stakes gambler always on the hustle. Echoing his gaudy personality, Ratner’s costuming reflected a flashy sensibility epitomised by his penchant for classic Italian luxury houses. Eternally kitted out in Gucci, muted colours offered a foundation to statement pieces like the logo belt, horse bit loafers and a buttery black leather jacket.

Adapting Hunter S. Thompson’s tome of Gonzo Journalism, the roman à clef Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, Terry Gilliam’s 1998 picture of the same name suitably captured the psychedelic essence of Raoul Duke and Dr. Gonzo’s road trip to Las Vegas. Reflecting the hedonistic exploits of the duo, portrayed by Johnny Depp and Benicio Del Toro, Duke’s costumes saw animal prints collide, while yellow tinged sunglasses and vacation shirts add further vibrant colour to the frame.

One of 2023’s surprise hits, Emerald Fennell’s Saltburn captured the attention of cinema fans and critics alike for its subversive role reversal of Les Liaisons dangereuses and its penchant for ‘00s British style. However, it was the twist on aristocratic style throughout that further grounded Barry Keoghan’s Oliver as a wolf in sheep’s clothing. With baroque style patterning littered across garments and rich red hues, these costume choices underline Oliver’s attempts to further ingratiate himself with the upper echelons of the aristocratic Catton family.