THE MALLEABLE NATURE OF MASTERMIND COLLABORATIONS

It’s a meticulousness that remains ever present in everything the label does, whether that be through its duo of lines, MASTERMIND World and mastermind JAPAN, or the way it malleably shape-shifts between collaborative partners. Its ability to remain recognisable in multiple different forms is testimony to Homma’s unwavering commitment to the brand’s aesthetic values, allowing the brand to permeate subcultural pockets from its Ura-Hara base to the world over.

As MASTERMIND World reunites with Vans Vault for a collection spanning accessories, footwear and apparel, END. takes a retrospective glance at the collaborative history of the Japanese brand and the manner it seamlessly moves between brands and product.

Vans and Mastermind represent a tour de force in the collaborative world, having partnered on several occasions throughout the past decade. The two reunite this year to continue to unify their aesthetic codes and distinctive design principles, applying this to a range of apparel, footwear and accessories. The collection represents a follow on from their three-way collaboration which was presented by END. at the end of 2021, where we joined forces with Vans Vault and MASTERMIND World to transform the SoCal label’s Sk8-Hi and Old Skool. The classic sneakers were brought under the spotlight of MASTERMIND World, reworked in a way that emphasised intricate details and Masaaki Homma’s penchant for punk styling. Throughout the years, Vans and Mastermind collaborations have varied, through a significant theme has ran throughout each one: classics looked at from a macabre, detail-oriented angle.  For this year’s collection, the two have reunited to continue the fusion of their distinct sensibilities, reworking the classic codes of Vans through Masaaki Homma’s dark, punk-inspired lens. The collection’s footwear is comprised of the Old Skool, Sk8-Hi and Authentic LX, with experimental tweaks to the classic styles coming by way of lightning bolts at the midsole and taped skull and crossbone patterns. Elsewhere, apparel features a bespoke take on Vans’ iconic checkerboard pattern, which features the Japanese label’s name detailed throughout. 

Renowned for their collaborative expertise, it’s no surprise that The North Face have a slew of celebrated collaborations with Mastermind under their belts. Transforming classic pieces from the outdoor brand’s arsenal of iconic garments, such as the Nuptse and Coach jacket, alongside a plethora of hiking inspired apparel and accessories. Draped in Mastermind’s favourite hue, black, their bright white Skull and Crossbones branding punctuates the tonal pieces with a hit of Homma’s aesthetic values, transforming TNF’s outlook with a flavour of modern Tokyo luxury streetwear.

Both well established as icons of streetwear, the collaborative relationship between A BATHING APE and Mastermind has been a fruitful one. Typified with a combination of both Japanese brands’ trademark logos and emblems – the instantly recognisable skull and crossbones and BAPE’s ape character – the harmony between both brands exemplifies their shared outlook. Rooted in classic streetwear sensibilities but with the scope and vision that allows them to surpass their origins, Mastermind and BAPE’s collaborative work celebrates their heritage as pioneers of Ura-Hara style.

Throughout the years, Carhartt WIP and Mastermind have partnered on several occasions, with each one representing an exercise in utility, detail and refinement. The last time the two came together in 2022, the result was an 8-piece capsule that utilised the archives of Carhartt WIP, offering elevated takes on workwear classics. The OG Active Jacket and Bib Overall, for instance, were transformed using an all-black palette, silver hardware and skull branding, while double knee pants were constructed using jersey and accented with silver embroidery. Carhartt WIP’s and Mastermind’s ongoing partnership ultimately reflects what the Japanese label has for so long upheld: the collision of streetwear codes with considered craftsmanship and refined elegance. 

Well before the Dunk returned to the spotlight in 2020, Mastermind and Nike’s collaboration saw the brands introduce a duo of Dunk High sneakers brimming with the Japanese brands signature aesthetic vision back in 2012. Subtly designed, with co-branded details to the heel and tongue, this pack saw one style cast in all black, while the second played on the Dunk’s iconic colour blocked make-up in grey and black. Underfoot was where Homma hid further details however, with a translucent outsole revealing oversized skull and crossbones branding across both feet.

John Elliott and Masaaki Homma are two designers with very similar sensibilities, approaching garments with a razor-sharp approach to details, fabric, construction techniques and fit. In 2021, END. brought John Elliott and mastermind JAPAN together to celebrate that, resulting in a dark, punk-inspired collection rooted in premium craft. The fabrics and their treatments took centre stage throughout the collection, with everything from cold-dyed jersey to holographic terry being used. Aesthetically, the approach was much darker and grungier, operating like a mirror to Homma and his muted sensibility.

Crocs’ Clog has been the subject of a slew of collaborations over the years, providing the perfect canvas for the brand’s partners to experiment on. In 2022, Crocs and mastermind JAPAN joined forces to rework the ever-iconic Clog, and the result was as dark and macabre as you’d expect. The Clog arrived in both all black and black and white — in keeping with the muted palette of Masaaki Homma — and featured bespoke details typical of the gothic Ura-Hara label. The heels were detailed with block letter branding, while the Clog’s signature Jibbitz™ came in the form of the brand’s synonymous skull and crossbones to really drive home the look.

In 2019, we partnered with heritage British label Fred Perry and MASTERMIND World for an exclusive collection, with punk rock, sportswear and Gothic sensibilities all colliding. The collection utilised the staples of Fred Perry as its basis — like a piqué polo shirt or taped track suiting — and cast them through the distinctive lens of MASTERMIND World. The palette, as to be expected, remained understated, while Homma’s penchant for detail shone through with the collection’s branding, which came in the form of embroidery, engraved nickel D-rings and taped co-branding. 

Tapping into Masaaki Homma’s trademark punk-inspired aesthetic, adidas’ 2016 collaboration with Mastermind celebrated their black and white colour palette beautifully across an NMD XR1 and a Tubular Instinct make-up. Capitalising on the fervent NMD fandom of the time, Homma applied his signature skull and crossbones – of course – with elevated material composition to ensure a truly luxurious finish. Channelling the brand’s eye for detail, the pack was rounded off with a smattering of subtle details to uplift the silhouettes even further – in true Mastermind Japan style.